Hampered by the dark memory of communism, for your regular foreigner visitor Polish food often brings to mind visions of grim, grey ooze glooped to a plate. But perceptions are changing thanks to a new generation of restaurants fully committed to showcasing the nation’s abundant resources.
The chic Kafe Zielony Niedźwieź is one such place: often changing daily, the menu gives this venue’s suppliers a star billing, and their faultless produce is afforded ultimate respect by the cultured hand of kitchen ace Wojciech Deres.
Reaching new peaks, the Insider’s most recent visit went something like this:
Goose broth complete with a goose-filled pierog, marinated tomato, plum and nigella seeds: deep, restorative and ruddy good!
Veal sweetbreads – a delicate, subtle dish that comes together perfectly.
Goose terrine with apricots marinated in Calvados, pistachios and cabbage.
Guess what? More goose! This time, goose breast with apple, beetroor, rowanberry and homemade noodles. Top marks.
Chocolate and cranberry mousse – the wickedest of temptations!
Overall: a thrilling meal that amply demonstrates the Green Bear’s credentials as one of Warsaw’s finest feeding troughs – superb!
Kafe Zielony Niedźwiedź
ul. Smolna 4, kafezn.pl
(Words & Photos: AW)