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The Original Arty-Techt
Looking at a modern building in Warsaw and thinking, “that’s pretty good actually,”? You’re probably looking at the work of Stefan Kuryłowicz… A 1972 graduate from Warsaw University of Technology, Kuryłowicz opened an architectural studio in 1983. Although commie bureaucracy rarely mixed well with creativity, Kuryłowicz and his associates... Read more
A Land Down Under
Not unlike discovering a lost world, the underground passages of the Filtry waterworks station are an eye-opening experience: miss them at your peril… Touring a waterworks isn’t usually my idea of fun. The word alone conjures visions of noise and nasty smells: if you want that, surely you can... Read more
Gringo Bar

Gringo Bar

Blog 1 June 2014 2

Mexican food is easy, right? Wrong. At least judging by the number of restaurants that make a total pig’s ear of it. I’ll use The Mexican as an example. The last time I ate there I was served something that resembled nuclear waste. For days after tremors were heard... Read more


Blog 30 May 2014 0

Gallivanting around bars and restaurants might sound like a pleasurable way of earning a few bucks, but it does have drawbacks – especially in Warsaw. I’ve a list longer than a snake of restaurants I need to visit, which means only rarely do I get to revisit places that... Read more
Silesia – Part II
Of the seven underground complexes known to have been built as part of the Nazi Riese project, seven have so far been discovered with three open to the public. Bleary eyed, we set off to visit the most high profile: Osówka. Traveling by taxi, the 40 minute ride takes... Read more
Don’t Be Scared of the Dark – Silesia Part 1
Saturday morning, beginning of April. For the last two weeks Poland has been bathed in the exquisite colors of an early spring. Today though, it’s a slate grey sky accompanied by drizzle. But it’s appropriate: is there a better way to view Książ Castle than as it emerges from... Read more
Neighborhood Prowl: Saska Kępa
With Saska’s annual day winding up for another year, the Insider takes a look at the architectural details that make the area so unqiue. Saska’s interwar architecture borders the magnificent. Katowicka 7A (above) was designed by Bohdan Lachert for his father. Lachert himself lived next door in what is... Read more
Bodies Revealed

Bodies Revealed

Features 23 May 2014 0

There can’t be many exhibitions in the world that prompt people to reassess their lifestyle, but then there can’t be many exhibitions like this. If not my whole life, I certainly regretted the night before – the tenth beer and that twentieth cigarette. Maybe it was the liver, engorged... Read more


Blog 20 May 2014 0

Bielańska Street: I’d given up ever seeing this piece of Warsaw resurrected. For years – six decades or so – this plot stood as a derelict war wreck. But after a snowfall of magic money beans it’s been transformed – the award-winning Senator office building has risen and now,... Read more
Dwie Trzecie

Dwie Trzecie

Blog 17 May 2014 0

A few weeks ago I sang eulogies about Jedna Trzecie, a beautiful Belgian beer bar that didn’t so much add swagger to my step as it did a stagger. Great place, even better beer. Anyhow, they’ve now gone the extra yard and added a restaurant to their portfolio by... Read more