Coordinates

Powiśle has been beeping on the foodie radar for quite some time, and Baires finds itself in the eye of the storm: sharing the same building as Tuna (another Argentinean-run venture), and just a dart’s throw from Elektrownia, the location is enviable. Found on the ground floor of the Sava Boutique Hotel, all the area’s highlights are in striking distance – the river, MSN, the Copernicus Centre, etc.

Style

The cardboard cutout of Leo Messi in the window sets the tone. Baires looks smart, but it doesn’t take itself too seriously. Clinging to the wine-coloured walls are an array of photographs honouring the Argentinean greats of film and football. If you’re English, look away: yep, that’s Maradona in the corner, fisting the ball past a helpless Peter Shilton. Set with national flags, sporting pennants and a cupboard of wine, the informal attitude works well with the food and spirit of Baires – you’re going to have a good time.

Sips

Go native and order a Pisco Sour (PLN 36) or a Fernet Con Coca (PLN 36). These are pretty simple drinks to make, but that doesn’t mean Warsaw always gets them right. Here they do. Very drinkable – maybe a little too drinkable – these sips will get your evening off on the right foot. For the wine drinker, the options include bottles from Alchimia de los Andes, a high-altitude vineyard in Mendoza. For a bottle you’re looking at a spend of between PLN 160 to 220.

Substance

Let the fun begin. Kick-off with an empanada, generously filled with choices such as minced beef, red pepper and onion (PLN 19). The Portena pizzas too promise much deliciousness – featuring extra thick dough and a motherlode of cheese, they’re a great twist on the standard. If you just want a teaser, they serve them by the slice (PLN 12-14) as well as by the whole (PLN 48-51).  Of course, it is meat that comes first here though, and in Baires that means a proper Argentine grill experience. Rib-eye (PLN 98) and Picanha (PLN 89) are served, though the short-rib is also utterly enjoyable (PLN 84). All come with house chimichurri and criolla, as well as a side of your choosing. As for dessert (PLN 24), we plunked for the dulce de leche ice cream with chocolate chip, an ecstasy of crunchy, crispy caramel tastes.

Verdict

Baires is the ultimate good mood restaurant. Run by Lucas Arce, you feel his passion and skill coded into the good vibe of this venue. Serving food that everyone can understand and appreciate, it’s as big on taste as it is on atmosphere. Loving somewhere has never been this easy.

Baires

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 43, baireswarsaw.com