A few dates in Poland’s calendar are as cherished as Tłusty Czwartek (Fat Thursday). Marking the last Thursday before Lent, traditionally this date was seen as the last day on which devout worshippers could feast on treats that were shunned during the solemn fasting period. Over the years, that came to mean the humble donut.

The statistics tell their own story. According to latest data, Poles spend PLN 176 million buying donuts on this day, consuming around 100 million in all. Undeterred by cost jumps, last year saw average prices rise to PLN 4.63 per donut, a leap of over 30%. Traditionally filled with rose jam or quince, in recent years more radical versions have emerged to compete with the old school pączek. Impossible as it is to carve room to list all of the stores worth knowing, we bring you some of the best of the best – from veteran legends to new wave vegans!

Traditionalists

Irena

Zakopiańska 20 & Paryska 39

Existing since 1937, this cult venue chooses to decorate its donuts with orange peel and pipe them full of plum jam. The results transcend description. Visit!

Stary Dom

Puławska 104/106

The ruling aesthetic conjures images of Warsaw’s upmarket, inter-war confectionaries. The desserts – and donuts – are traditional in style but premium in quality and price.

Zagoździński

Górczewska 15

Serving Warsaw for 99-years, the most famous donut store in town sees queues stretch around the block. Side-stepping innovation, visiting is an essential Warsaw experience.

The New Crew

Kukułka

Mokotowska 52 / Burakowska 15 / Francuska 10A / Krasińskiego 10

Kukułka’s desserts have lifted Warsaw in a celestial direction. Cream puffs, tartlets and cakes are the specialty, but the donuts that also appear are outstanding and often with radical jams.

Lukullus

Lisowska 23 / Chmielna 23 / Rozbrat 22/24 / Walecznych 29 / Mokotowska 52A

Though their origins date to 1946, the individualised, uber-cool interiors and modern desserts make Lukullus a shoe-in on this shortlist. Using rose jam as their filling, the donuts are a nod to the roots of this highly vaunted operation.

MOD

Oleandrów 8 & Paryska 27

All the better for ignoring chemical nasties and mass-market shortcuts, the playful nature of MOD’s non-standard offerings is expressed via all-natural, boldly-coloured toppings such as matcha, mango, black forest gateau, salted caramel or hibiscus.

MUUS

Tamka 22/24

At Muus, taste is not sacrificed for show. The pretty boutique styling is eye-catching, but the biggest points are saved for spectacular flavours that have given the city’s patisserie scene a high voltage shock.

Vegan Vanguard

Baja

Solec 85

Hailed around the city for their vegan translations of dessert, last year’s hits included donuts with plum and rum as well as passion fruit with coconut icing.

Eter

Hoża 5/7

Inside an interior filled with retro furnishings, check Ether’s offer of fab vegan cakes and goodies. Last year, the donuts included pistachio-matcha and hibiscus-raspberry.