Utterly unrecognizable from its previous incarnation as Solec 44, this rail-side communist pavilion has been transformed courtesy of a thorough makeover featuring a jungle of plants, low, muted lighting and the addition of smart charcoal colors and revamped retro fittings. It’s a place that makes you feel good about life, a feeling that peaks when enjoying the last of the summer on the narrow green terrace.

In the kitchen, chef Anna Klajmon made her bones at Grunt i Woda, and her farm-to-fork philosophy has followed her here. Cooking with an air of freedom, there’s a natural goodness to her menu that belies the modest pricing. Highly seasonal, on our visit that meant gorgeous Silesian-style dumplings with a mousse or burnt butter; oxtail pierogi with peanut butter and hazelnut sauce; vegetable pancakes accompanied by a ring of rich tomato and pepper sauce; and a steamed yogurt pudding dressed with seasonal fruit and a light meringue. Excellent all round.

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ul. Solec 44, facebook