How’s this for progress – where once the upper stretch of Jana Pawła was notorious for its grimy peep shows, today its pavilions are celebrated as the home of a thriving ethnic food scene. Running the gamut from Japanese to Mexican, Indian to Tibetan, the wealth of options are made all the better for their budget-minded, street food style.

Who shines the brightest out of all of these choices is the topic of fierce dispute, but Queen Sheba are most certainly up there. Opened around seven months ago, this cramped, little nook presents itself in a cheerful manner, decorated as it is with chunky woods and Ethiopian flags, fabrics and assorted trinkets – sincere and warm in its welcome, the casual sense of intimacy lends itself well to a place where good vibes seep from every corner.

Helping the mood, of course, are three Ethiopian lagers as well as a deliciously thick honey wine served in a traditional berele – a curious-looking vessel that wouldn’t be out of place in an alchemist’s studio. It is the food though that is the principal standout, served on teff-based injera bread (think of a giant pancake) and then scooped up by hand. Yes, this soon descends into a bit of a mess, but that’s part of the joy.

Featuring such openers as the samosa-style sambusas and karya sing (finely chopped tomatoes, onion and garlic stuffed inside a pepper), these lead onto mains such as cubes of beef with hot pepper paste or stewed lentils in a spicy berbere sauce. But for the best introduction of all, then look no further than the mixed sharing platters – priced at PLN 120 for two, the choice falls to you to pick out four meat dishes and one vegan that will then arrive in a big heap on an XL-sized injera. A feast in the truest sense, it’s impossible not to feel anything but love for this exotic standout.