That’s progress for you: where once (a very long time ago), you’d have found Maharaja on the top floor of a decaying socialist block, today you’ll find it on the ground floor of one of Warsaw’s most prestigious residential projects. It’s shrunk in size considerably, and it looks more like one of the faceless restaurant units found in an out-of-town shopping centre, but the tastes are as true as ever. Though the menu feels far more limited than much of the Indian competition, those dishes that have made the cut are largely exceptional: that includes a creamy butter chicken that’s so rich and deep you struggle to think of anywhere better. Great stuff.

Maharaja
ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers), maharaja.waw.pl