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A scattering of tables make reservations recommended in Mamma Marietta, an informal looking restaurant with lugubrious interiors and solemn service. But the food, created by head chef Andrea, has an authenticity that’s rare in a city whose enthusiasm for Italian food isn’t always reflected by quality. The tomato soup starter is deliciously thick and almost worth the trip itself.

Mamma Marietta

ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071, open 12:00-22:00, www.mammamarietta.com