Warsaw’s love of good Italian is nothing new – ever since Queen Bona Sforza bought little pieces of Italy over to Poland in the 16th century, the city has viewed the food of Italy with wide, loving eyes. Living in the past, however, is not something Warsaw does, and Madre emphasizes that by reimagining Italian cuisine in a way that’s innovative and modern. 

The Who

A joint enterprise, the forces behind Madre are Pablo Martin Delgado and Giacomo Carreca. The former, you’ll have probably heard of already – the creator of Tapas Bar, Warsaw’s Hispanic scene would be nothing without his invigorating passion. Sicilian-born Carreca, on the other hand, is best-known locally for his stint at Diverso restaurant as well as through his popular cooking workshops. Together, their influence and know-how runs through a menu that kicks off with two signature negronis named after the owners – for us, we picked the well-crafted Pablo, a mix of Larios gin, Astobiza vermouth and Sprissetto bitter.

It’s a nice, personalised touch to have a drink honouring the owner(s), and their pulling power has proved such that in Madre’s short life check-ins have come from the likes of Andrea Camastra – the only Michelin-starred chef working in Warsaw. As an endorsement, that’s as good as it gets.

The Where

Madre sits in a corner unit of Elektrownia Powiśle, with one side overlooking the main entrance. Design-wise, it’s interesting: neon curls and disc-shaped ceiling lights hanging above an interior that’s a big bang of blacks, glass, teal and Austin Powers orange. Casual and contemporary, it feels right for every moment – whether that be an evening date, a working lunch or a post-shopping break whilst you update your Insta.

The What

The food of Italy is given a fresh perspective under Carreca’s hand, and that much is clear from the off. Starting out, piccolo bites include six marble-sized croquettes bursting with creamy Parma ham (PLN 32), whilst starters hit the right mark as well through choices such as the polenta churros (PLN 34)  – served in a tin mess tray, these pencil-sized treasures come with a gorgonzola sauce that’s satisfyingly creamy and crumbly.

Pasta though is the biggest draw here, made from scratch to exacting standards – generously topped with parmesan foam and cacao, the open lasagne Bolognese (PLN 58) says much about this kitchen’s attention to detail. There is of course pizza, as well, and that divides itself into classics and ‘gourmet’ choices. Made using 18-year-old sourdough, we picked the Gamberi (PLN 80), the priciest of the lot. Served cold and only warmed around the edges, some could call it an acquired taste, yet there is no faulting the skill and thought behind it. Nor the ingredients. Featuring a carpaccio of torched prawns and an exciting mango chili salsa, it’s most certainly memorable. As for dessert, choose from a trio of tiramisus (PLN 26-30) that boast homemade savoiardi and other loving touches.

The Verdict

For those still living in pre-covid times, the prices can appear a little steep, yet there is much potential here. With footfall guaranteed courtesy of the premium location, expect Madre’s name to ring loudly in the new year as its reputation grows. Breaking away from norms whilst simultaneously respecting aspects of tradition, it’s an adventurous addition to Warsaw’s booming Italian scene.