A sure sign that a restaurant has mastered its craft is the sight of an orderly queue braving sub-zero temperatures. Nestled under a wooden sign bearing a simple logo, this unassuming establishment, distinguished by a grid of nine windows, first emerged as a culinary oasis during the pandemic. Operating within the confines of Covid restrictions, this unpretentious spot in the city centre has been dishing out delectable triangular parcels of rice joy ever since, each one a vessel for meticulously prepared Japanese delicacies.

Curiosity led me to ponder how a compact space manages to produce a diverse array of fresh options daily. Unveiling the mystery, I discovered that the central location, near Politechnika, focuses on crafting the rice and preparing select fillings, while the primary production hub in Mokotów, near Bazar Olkuska, handles the bulk of the operation. The revelation that the owner, Kasia, earned her culinary stripes in Japan, courtesy of an invitation and an apprenticeship at Tokyo’s renowned Onigiri Bongo, added an intriguing layer to the narrative. Her first-hand experience of planting rice in Niigata and her admiration for Ghibli movies piqued my interest, compelling me to pay her establishment a visit in the hopes of striking up a conversation.

Stepping into the restaurant, I was immediately captivated by an interior reminiscent of a young anime fan’s bedroom. Opting for a seat at the bar, where traditionally the Japanese leave their culinary fate in the hands of the chef, I was warmly greeted by none other than the onigiri maestro herself, Kasia. As she regaled me with tales of her onigiri-making adventures, her hand gestured proudly towards a wall adorned with photos capturing her alongside Japanese legends and even operating a rice transplanter in Niigata’s fields.

Kasia’s menu boasts a tempting selection of ten vegan and six non-vegan onigiri. My choice, the spicy Akuma crafted from minced soy, delivered a tantalising kick enhanced by the addition of rayu chili oil. For a non vegan indulgence, I sampled the Sake, featuring salmon aged in sake with shoyku and takuan, a yellow pickled daikon. The harmonious fusion of flavors and textures, encased in seaweed imported from Japan, was nothing short of blissful.

So enamoured was I with my lunch that I couldn’t resist ordering a few more onigiri to share with my family. As Kasia handed over the neatly packaged parcels, I couldn’t hide my hesitance, knowing my perennial struggle with the three-step process of opening plastic wraps. Sensing my predicament, Kasia graciously bowed and handed me a small card elucidating the steps, going the extra mile to demonstrate the technique with a reassuring smile. “Don’t worry,” she quipped, “even some Japanese people have difficulty opening them.” Such thoughtful gestures and culinary excellence make this onigiri haven in Warsaw a hidden gem worth discovering.