We’re well-used to dismissing far-flung restaurants as being in no-man’s land, but in this case The Eatery is so far off-center it practically falls off the radar.
Is that a bad thing? Nah, of course it isn’t. We all know that the center tanked during The Great Bat Flu, and the opening of The Eatery is another affirmation of how Warsaw’s food map has expanded outwards as a consequence of that.
So where is it exactly? To be honest, we’ve really no idea – somewhere in the grey zone that could pass as Grochów, Gocław or the enigma that is Gocławek. Set on a ground unit of a residential new build, you’re about ten-minutes walk from Atrium Promenada.
Though capable of holding not that many more than twenty-five diners, space is not an issue: floor-to-ceiling windows and a mirrored wall grant an illusory sense of room, whilst the neutral color palette generates a chameleon effect – in sunshine, The Eatery feels bright and vibrant, and in darkness, intimate and atmospheric.
To this, add a dose of terrazzo surfaces, orb-like lights and a smattering of plants and you have yourself a restaurant that feels comfortable to dwell in whatever the hour. Oh, and the playlist is the very definition of after-work chill – find your mood automatically enhanced by all these good vibes.
I’m unsure if they want the self-publicity, so I shan’t reveal the owners, but needless to say this young couple have a strong history in hospitality and design – this shows, and emphatically so. Then, wearing the hat in the kitchen, you’ve got Bartłomiej Trojanowski, a huge talent whose background includes A-list choices such as Kieliszki na Próżnej.
Presented on a sexy little clipboard, the menu does tout some international choices; for the most part, though, you’re looking at modern Polish: this isn’t fine dining, but it is classic recipes reimagined with modern flair.
Drinks-wise, there’s good wines and some craft beers from the unimpeachable Stu Mostow brewery. Cocktails don’t appear on the menu, but don’t let that stop you from ordering – they’ll fix you up with whatever suits your mood.
If the portioning looks measly in the photos, then allow us to explain: small as the menu is, you want to eat it all. With this intention declared, we negotiated pared-down helpings served in miniaturized form.
Kicking-off, that meant panko-crusted potato with creamy cottage cheese and pinches of charlock – a joy of crunch and texture.
Next, a pitch-perfect tartare with sprigs of coriander and all those little extras that make this a classic.
But great as these were, the hero of the moment transpired to be a sourdough mushroom soup of such oomph and flavor as to leave us in awe.
Tumbled onto a sweet, soft brioche and thick-cut chips, and served with a dab of homemade BBQ sauce, the pulled beef is a bestseller for good reason. But it’s the Polish food for which you should visit.
Ruskie pierogi are turned into a delicate artform, and so too the hearty, humble pyzy – best defined as a squashy dumpling, find this lamb-filled pouch of goodness sitting like a prince on a rich cheesy sauce.
And what sauces! Wrapped in cabbage, the pork gołąbki steal the show with a demi-glace of such depth and taste that your soul glows anew.
Finishing, you want to invade the kitchen to hoist the chef on your shoulders and carry him forth on a mini lap of honor. This is more than just good work – it’s absolutely bloody brilliant.
What Happened Next?
Dessert, of course. Just two on our visit, but enough to divide our jury as to which was the best: flaky, crispy angel wings served with a cool pistachio cream? Or a fragrant apple cake with hints of cider and cinnamon? Try picking a winner from these and you’ll find yourselves trapped in a blissful deadlock.
On the food front, there’s not one single dish that swings north of 50. Yes, you expect the suburbs to be cheaper than the center, but at a time when every restaurant we know is all but adding zeroes to their price tags, the moderate cost of The Eatery has you rubbing your eyes. Surely there’s been some kind of mistake? No, there really hasn’t. Excluding drinks, a three-course meal shouldn’t climb into triple digits.
The Final Word
Quite simply, think of The Eatery as the most unexpected pleasure you’ll discover all year. Food? Brilliant. Mood? Likewise. And prices? Yes, please. True, there are some that will need to take a leap of faith to travel this far for food, but at The Eatery you’ll find that aforementioned leap richly rewarded. We do not say this lightly: it’s fabulous.
ul. Ostrobramska 73E, eatery.pl