‘Kilian who?’ people asked when Wojciech Kilian was installed as head chef. But this immense talent has had the last laugh, wooing diners with an extraordinary menu that makes fine dining accessible to all bank accounts. Complementing Kilian’s cooking is a perfect design described by one Insider as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’. Think friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. That sense of easy luxury makes you feel a millionaire just being there.

But have no doubt, it’s all about the food. On the Insider’s latest visit that means a salad starter composed of smoked Polar cod, fennel and apples with cucumber mouse. Accompanying it a dab of horseradish ice cream which plays off the cod well.

Mains aren’t the most photogenic, but my God they are fantastic. The beef tenderloin is cooked medium rare and sits next to a slick of mushroom sauce. Partnering it is a potato gratin that is rich and creamy. It’s a simple dish, meat and veg, but such is the quality you’d happily order it as a Death Row final meal.

Does luck run out with dessert? Does it hell. The praline tart won top prize at the Noble Wine & Food Night, and you soon see why. For a second I ponder ordering another.

Signature is not a restaurant that makes a noise and blows its own trumpet – it’s got more class than that. Yet it has every right to, for have no doubt this is a restaurant that sits alongside the other fine dining heavyweights. It’s extraordinary, and a worthy addition to Michelin’s list of recommended Warsaw restaurants.

Signature

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