You wouldn’t say it had flatlined, but a couple of years ago you would have been forgiven for accusing Warsaw’s wine scene of getting a little sleepy – if you were a wine bar, it was all about selling big labels to big businessmen. And if this was done in somewhere that looked like a warehouse, then so much the better. Frankly, it was all a bit boring.

Step into the present, and things couldn’t be more different. Buoyed by the success of such venues as Natural Rascal and Niewinność, a new generation has come to view wine as not something snuck away for formal occasions, but as a libation to be enjoyed at every opportunity. Now, add Brać to the list of frontline pioneers.

Focused on highlighting the wines of Poland, this alone says much for the boldness of their concept. As resistant as traditionalists may be to the very notion of Polish wine, Brać rip-up the rule book to present on-edge sips from niche producers you’ve probably never heard of. Being here is an education, and just by ordering you’re joining the revolution.

But if you think Brać is just about wine, you’re missing the point – Brać is about Poland, not just the country’s wine. That’s why the menu reveals regional beers, locally roasted coffee and small-batch spirits. And then there’s the small matter of food – featuring artisanal cheese plates, cured meats and itsy little sandwiches, everything you order celebrates the magical nature of Poland’s fields, forests, farms and lakes.

Bathed in a rich, red neon glow, it looks pretty divine as well – chic and stylish but with hints of retro flair. Alongside the street art doodles of Kamil Lach, find PRL era cabinets sparingly decorated with jumble sale finds (e.g. a plastic dinosaur). Wonderful in its mood, style and playful spirit, Brać has the qualities to become one of the capital’s most relevant bars – and that’s even taking into account the slightly incongruous location within a slightly soulless residential compound. After all, revolutions have to begin somewhere – why not here?